Sizing backup power or trying to work out why the electric bill is so high? Either way, there are three numbers you’ll want for your fridge: running watts, starting watts and daily energy use.
The short answer
| Measurement | Typical modern fridge | What it’s for |
|---|---|---|
| Running watts | 150–200 W | Inverter / generator continuous rating |
| Starting (surge) watts | 800–1,200 W | Inverter / generator surge rating |
| Average watts over a day | 40–80 W | Battery runtime |
| Daily energy | 1–2 kWh | Battery size, electricity cost |
| Yearly energy | 350–750 kWh | EnergyGuide label |
Why there are so many numbers
A fridge’s compressor cycles. It turns on until things are cold enough, then off until they warm up a little. A defrost heater also comes on now and then, often 300–600 W for 20–40 minutes, once or twice a day.
So the fridge might pull nothing one minute, 180 W the next, and 1,000 W for a split second when the compressor starts. That’s why daily energy is the most useful number, both for backup power and for your bill.
Finding your fridge’s real numbers
- The EnergyGuide label is the best place to start for U.S. fridges. Look for the yellow tag or search the model number online; it lists estimated kWh per year. Divide by 365 for kWh per day.
- The nameplate sticker inside the fridge lists amps. Multiply by 120 to get watts, but remember this is a maximum, not normal use.
- A plug-in watt meter is the most accurate option. Leave the fridge plugged into one for 24 hours and it captures the cycling and the defrost.
- If you already have a power station, its screen shows live output. Run the fridge from it for a few hours and you’ll see the real numbers.
Typical use by type of fridge
| Type | kWh per year | Daily | Monthly cost at 18¢ |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mini fridge (3–4 cu ft) | 220–300 | 0.6–0.8 kWh | $3.30–$4.50 |
| Top-freezer, Energy Star | 350–450 | 1.0–1.2 kWh | $5.25–$6.75 |
| Side-by-side | 550–700 | 1.5–1.9 kWh | $8.25–$10.50 |
| French door with dispenser | 600–750 | 1.6–2.1 kWh | $9.00–$11.25 |
| 20-year-old fridge | 900–1,400 | 2.5–3.8 kWh | $13.50–$21.00 |
If your fridge is more than 15 years old, replacing it can save $50–$150 a year and roughly halve what you need from backup power.
What it means for backup power
With a power station, size the battery from the daily kWh. A fridge using 1.2 kWh a day needs about 1,400 Wh of capacity to get through 24 hours after losses, and the surge rating should be above about 1,200 W. There’s more in how long a power station runs a fridge.
With a generator, anything with at least 1,500 starting watts will start a typical fridge, as long as no other motor is starting at the same moment.
The electricity cost calculator shows exactly what your fridge costs to run, and the wattage chart covers other appliances.